How to Jack Up a Car Properly Without Damage

Learning how to jack up a car properly is a fundamental skill for any driver. Doing it incorrectly can cause severe damage to your vehicle or lead to dangerous accidents. This guide provides the expert-approved method to ensure safety and prevent harm.

Using the wrong technique risks bending your car’s frame, crushing critical components, or causing the jack to fail. Our proven methods will help you avoid these expensive and hazardous mistakes completely.

Best Jacks for Lifting Your Car – Detailed Comparison

Torin Big Red Steel Jack (Model T10152) – Best Overall Choice

This 3-ton hydraulic floor jack offers exceptional value and reliability. It features a smooth hydraulic pump and a 5-inch lift range, making it ideal for most sedans and SUVs. Its sturdy steel construction and wide base provide stable, secure lifting for routine maintenance and tire changes.

Pro-Lift F-2315PE Grey Low-Profile Floor Jack – Best for Low-Clearance Vehicles

Designed for sports cars and lowered vehicles, this jack has a minimal 3-inch saddle height. Its 1.5-ton capacity is perfect for lighter vehicles, and the lightweight aluminum construction makes it easy to maneuver. This is the recommended option for enthusiasts with modified cars.

Hein-Werner HW93503 3-Ton Service Jack – Best for Professional Use

For those seeking commercial-grade durability, this heavy-duty service jack is the best option. It boasts a long 23-inch chassis and a rapid-pump mechanism for efficient lifting. Its robust build and consistent performance make it ideal for frequent use in home garages or by serious DIY mechanics.

Essential Safety Precautions Before Lifting Your Vehicle

Before you even touch the jack, proper preparation is critical. These fundamental safety steps prevent accidents and protect both you and your vehicle from damage. Never skip this pre-lift checklist.

Choosing the Right Location and Gear

Always perform this task on a firm, level, and paved surface. Soft ground like gravel or dirt can cause the jack to shift or sink. Engage your car’s parking brake fully and place wheel chocks against the tires that will remain on the ground.

• Parking Brake & Wheel Chocks: The parking brake secures the rear wheels. Chocks prevent any forward or backward rolling movement, adding a crucial layer of safety.
• Level Ground: Lifting on an incline drastically increases the risk of the vehicle sliding or falling off the jack. A level driveway or garage floor is mandatory.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes and safety glasses. Keep hands clear of pinch points under the vehicle.

Understanding Your Vehicle’s Jack Points

This is the most common cause of costly damage. Your car has specific, reinforced jack points designed to handle the concentrated weight. Lifting anywhere else can crush body panels, brake lines, or the fuel tank.

Consult your owner’s manual to locate the exact points for your model. They are typically marked by small notches or reinforced sections along the vehicle’s side sill or frame. For a visual guide, refer to this common point comparison:

Lift Point Type	Location	Purpose & Warning
Official Jack Points	Side sills/frame rails	Reinforced for emergency jack; use for tire changes.
Lift Points (for floor jack)	Front crossmember, rear differential	Central points for raising entire axle; safer for prolonged work.
Danger Zones to AVOID	Body panels, oil pan, exhaust	Will cause immediate and expensive damage.

Key Takeaway: Never guess the jack point. Always use the manufacturer-specified locations found in your manual to prevent structural damage.

Step-by-Step Guide to Jacking Up Your Car Safely

Follow this precise sequence to lift your vehicle without causing damage. Each step builds upon the last to ensure maximum stability and safety throughout the process. Rushing is the enemy of safe car lifting.

Positioning and Engaging the Jack

Center the jack’s saddle directly under the confirmed lift point. For a floor jack, this is usually a central point like the front crossmember. For a scissor jack, align it with the side sill notch. Ensure the jack is perfectly vertical before you begin pumping.

1. Align the Jack: Carefully position it so the saddle contacts the lift point squarely. Avoid any contact with plastic trim or fragile components.
2. Initial Lift Contact: Pump the handle slowly until the jack just makes firm contact with the vehicle. You should feel the weight begin to transfer.
3. Lift in Stages: Lift smoothly and steadily in short pumps. Stop frequently to check that the jack remains aligned and the vehicle is stable.

Securing the Vehicle with Jack Stands

Never work under a car supported only by a jack. Hydraulic jacks can fail. Jack stands are non-negotiable for any repair where you go underneath. Place them before you begin any work.

• Choose Correct Capacity: Use jack stands rated for at least the weight of your vehicle. A pair of 3-ton stands is a safe minimum for most cars.
• Placement is Key: Position the stands under a secure, load-bearing part of the frame or axle, near the jack point. Consult your manual for approved stand locations.
• Lower Onto Stands: Slowly lower the hydraulic jack until the vehicle’s weight rests completely on the stands. The jack can remain in place as a secondary safety backup, but not bearing weight.

Key Takeaway: The jack is for lifting only. Jack stands are for supporting. Always use both systems together before getting under the vehicle.

Lowering the Car Back Down

Reversing the process safely is just as important. Clear all tools and ensure no one is near the vehicle. Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the stands, then lower it slowly and completely to the ground.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Costly Damage

Even with the right tools, simple errors can lead to dangerous situations or expensive repairs. Recognizing these frequent pitfalls is key to mastering safe car lifting techniques. Learn from others’ mistakes to protect your vehicle and yourself.

Critical Errors in Jack Placement and Use

Incorrect placement is the top cause of damage. Avoid lifting on suspension components, the oil pan, or exhaust pipes. Also, never exceed your jack’s rated weight capacity, as this can cause sudden hydraulic failure.

• Using Improper Lift Points: Lifting on a door sill or floor pan can crumple sheet metal and damage wiring harnesses running underneath. Always target the reinforced metal points.
• Ignoring Weight Limits: A 1.5-ton jack is insufficient for a large SUV. Exceeding capacity stresses the jack’s seals and can lead to a catastrophic drop.
• Relying Solely on the Jack: A hydraulic jack is a lifting device, not a support device. Fluid can leak, valves can fail. Jack stands are mandatory for support.

Stability and Environmental Hazards

Failing to secure the vehicle and its environment introduces major risk. An un-chocked wheel can allow the car to roll, pulling it off the jack. Working on uneven ground compounds every other hazard.

Consider this comparison of stable versus hazardous setups:

Safe Practice	Risky Practice	Potential Consequence
Car in Park, Parking Brake On, Wheels Chocked	Car in Neutral, No Chocks	Vehicle rolls, falls off jack, causing injury or damage.
Jack & Stands on Solid, Level Pavement	Lifting on Gravel or Slope	Jack sinks or tilts, vehicle becomes unstable and falls.
Working in a Well-Lit, Dry Garage	Working in Rain or Poor Light	Slippery surfaces, poor visibility, and rushed mistakes increase accident risk.

Key Takeaway: The most dangerous mistakes are often the simplest to avoid: use the right points, respect weight limits, and never trust a jack alone. Double-check your setup every time.

Advanced Tips for Different Vehicle Types and Scenarios

Not all vehicles are lifted the same. Adapting your technique for trucks, SUVs, or sports cars is crucial for safety. These pro tips address specific challenges you might encounter during real-world car maintenance.

Lifting Trucks, SUVs, and High-Clearance Vehicles

Heavier vehicles demand more robust equipment and careful point selection. The increased height also requires extra stability measures. Always use a high-weight-capacity floor jack and matching jack stands.

• Use a Lift Point Adapter: Many trucks have a solid front axle. A lift point adapter or a block of wood on the jack saddle can provide a secure, non-slip contact point on the round axle.
• Mind the Differential: For the rear, the pumpkin of the solid rear axle is often a safe lift point. Ensure your jack saddle is large enough to cradle it securely without slipping.
• Extended Jack Stands: Standard-height jack stands may not extend high enough. Invest in taller, heavy-duty stands specifically rated for truck use.

Handling Low-Profile and Sports Cars

The primary challenge here is getting the jack under the car. A low-profile floor jack is essential. Be extra vigilant about clearance for side skirts and aerodynamic body kits.

1. Drive onto Rhino Ramps First: Gently drive the front wheels onto low-profile ramps. This creates just enough clearance to slide your low-profile floor jack underneath the central front lift point.
2. Protect the Bodywork: Place a soft rubber pad or a folded towel on the jack saddle. This prevents scratches to delicate underbody panels or splitters when contact is made.
3. Pinpoint Accuracy: Lift points on sports cars are often very specific. Use a flashlight and your owner’s manual to identify them exactly before making any contact.

Key Takeaway: Adapt your tools and technique to the vehicle. Trucks need heavy-duty capacity and adapters, while sports cars require low-profile jacks and meticulous placement to avoid body damage.

What to Do If Your Car Gets Stuck on the Jack

If a jack fails or the vehicle becomes unstable, do not panic. Do not try to hold the car or crawl under it. Slowly back away and use a second jack, wooden blocks, or call for professional assistance to stabilize the situation safely.

Maintenance and Inspection of Your Lifting Equipment

Your jack and stands are safety-critical tools. Regular inspection and proper care ensure they function reliably when you need them most. Neglected equipment is a leading cause of preventable lifting accidents.

Regular Jack Inspection Checklist

Before each use, perform a quick visual and functional check. Look for signs of wear, damage, or fluid leaks that could compromise the jack’s integrity. A few minutes of inspection can prevent a disaster.

• Hydraulic Fluid & Leaks: Check for oil seepage around the pump piston, release valve, and hydraulic seals. Low fluid will prevent the jack from lifting or holding pressure.
• Structural Integrity: Inspect the frame, saddle, and handle for cracks, bends, or significant rust. Pay special attention to weld points, as these are potential failure points.
• Wheels and Casters: Ensure the jack’s wheels roll freely and aren’t cracked or seized. A jack that won’t move smoothly is difficult to position accurately.
• Release Valve Function: Test the lowering mechanism before lifting the car. The valve should open and close smoothly without sticking.

Caring for and Storing Jack Stands

Jack stands require less maintenance but are equally important to inspect. Their locking mechanisms and weight-bearing teeth must be in perfect condition to ensure they don’t collapse.

Follow this simple storage and care routine to maximize their lifespan and safety:

1. Clean After Use: Wipe down stands with a dry cloth to remove dirt, grease, and moisture that can lead to rust in the locking mechanism.
2. Test the Locking Pin: Before use, ensure the adjustable height pin slides in and out easily and locks securely into the chosen tooth without excessive play.
3. Store Properly: Keep stands in a dry place, not on a damp garage floor. Store them in the lowered position to protect the adjustment teeth and prevent accidental damage.

Key Takeaway: Treat your lifting gear like life-saving equipment. Inspect before every use, clean after every use, and replace at the first sign of damage, wear, or corrosion. Never use compromised tools.

When to Replace Your Equipment

Jacks and stands do not last forever. Replace them immediately if you find deep rust, hydraulic leaks that persist, bent components, or if the locking mechanism on a stand feels loose or slips. Your safety is worth more than the cost of new tools.

When to Call a Professional Instead of DIY

Knowing your limits is a critical part of safe automotive work. Some situations pose inherent risks that outweigh the benefits of a DIY approach. Recognizing these scenarios protects you, your vehicle, and your wallet from severe consequences.

Scenarios Requiring Professional Equipment and Expertise

Certain repairs require lifting the entire vehicle evenly or accessing complex undercarriage systems. These jobs are best left to professionals with specialized lifts and training.

• Extensive Undercarriage Work: Jobs like transmission removal, exhaust system replacement, or fuel tank repair require prolonged, stable access under the car. A professional two-post lift is far safer than jack stands for this.
• Lifting the Entire Vehicle: If you need all four wheels off the ground simultaneously, you require a dedicated vehicle lift. Attempting this with multiple jacks and stands is extremely unstable and dangerous.
• Suspension or Frame Work: Replacing springs, struts, or performing frame alignment involves stored energy and precise alignment. These components can release force violently if handled incorrectly.

Assessing Your Personal Skill and Tool Limits

Be honest about your experience and available tools. A lack of proper equipment or uncertainty about the procedure are clear signs to seek help.

Use this quick decision matrix to evaluate whether to proceed or call a pro:

Situation	DIY-Friendly?	Reason & Professional Solution
Simple tire change on level ground	Yes	Straightforward with basic tools and our guide.
Brake pad inspection or replacement	Maybe (with experience)	Requires safe lifting and mechanical knowledge.
Lifting on uneven terrain or soft ground	No	High instability risk. Call a mobile mechanic.
Any repair where you feel unsure or rushed	No	Anxiety leads to mistakes. Professional service ensures safety.

Key Takeaway: There is no shame in calling a professional. If the job requires the car to be completely elevated, involves complex systems, or you lack the right tools and confidence, investing in professional service is the safest and smartest choice.

Conclusion: Mastering Safe Car Lifting Techniques

Learning how to jack up a car properly is an essential and empowering skill. It saves you money on simple repairs and prepares you for roadside emergencies. Following the correct steps prevents costly damage to your vehicle.

The key takeaway is simple: always use manufacturer jack points and never rely on a jack alone. Jack stands are your most important safety tool. Pair them with wheel chocks on level ground for a secure setup.

Review the steps in this guide before your next tire rotation or brake inspection. Practice in a safe, controlled environment to build your confidence. Share this knowledge with other DIY enthusiasts to promote safety.

With the right tools and this proven method, you can tackle basic maintenance safely and with complete confidence. Your vehicle and your safety are worth the careful preparation.

Frequently Asked Questions about Jacking Up a Car

What is the best way to jack up a car for a tire change?

The safest method uses a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands. First, secure the vehicle with the parking brake and wheel chocks. Position the floor jack under the manufacturer’s specified front or rear lift point, not the side sill. Lift until the tire clears the ground, then immediately place a jack stand under a secure frame point before working.

For the actual tire change, the side sill jack points are acceptable with the factory scissor jack, but only on level pavement. The floor jack and stand method is vastly more stable and recommended for any planned maintenance, providing a much safer working environment.

How do I jack up a car with a low front bumper?

Low-clearance vehicles require a specific approach. Use a low-profile floor jack, which has a very shallow saddle height. If clearance is still an issue, carefully drive the front wheels onto low-profile plastic ramps first. This creates the few extra inches needed to slide the jack underneath the central front crossmember or lift point.

Never try to force a standard jack under a low bumper, as you risk damaging bodywork. Sports car owners should consider investing in a dedicated low-profile jack like the Pro-Lift F-2315PE for ease and safety. Always double-check your owner’s manual for model-specific guidance.

Can you jack up a car from the control arm?

It is generally not recommended to jack up a car directly from the control arm. While some vehicles have reinforced sections, most control arms are not designed as primary lift points. Lifting from a weak spot can bend the arm, damage bushings, or misalign your suspension, leading to costly repairs and unsafe handling.

Always prioritize the manufacturer’s designated points on the frame or subframe. If you must use a suspension component, only do so if explicitly stated in your service manual. The risk of damage to steering and alignment components is significant when using non-standard points.

What should I do if my hydraulic jack won’t lift the car?

If the jack makes contact but won’t lift, first check that the release valve is fully closed (turned clockwise). The most common cause is low hydraulic fluid. Inspect the jack for leaks around the seals and pump piston. Over time, fluid can seep out or become contaminated, preventing the system from building pressure.

If there’s no visible leak, the internal seals may be worn. Do not attempt to force or repair a failing hydraulic jack. Using a compromised jack is extremely dangerous. The safest solution is to stop immediately and use a different, properly functioning jack to lower the vehicle and complete the task.

Is it safe to jack up a car on an incline?

No, it is never safe to jack up a car on an incline or sloped surface. Gravity will pull the vehicle’s weight sideways, creating a severe tipping hazard. This dramatically increases the chance of the car rolling or sliding off the jack and jack stands, which can cause catastrophic injury or damage.

Always perform jacking operations on a firm, level, paved surface like a flat driveway or garage floor. If you have a flat tire on a slope, the safest action is to slowly drive or carefully roll the car to the nearest level area, even if it’s just a few feet away, before attempting to lift it.

How many jack stands do I need to work under a car?

You need a minimum of two jack stands to safely support a vehicle you plan to work under. The stands should be placed under secure, load-bearing points on the same axle (both front or both rear). Using two stands provides a stable, balanced base of support that prevents the car from rocking or tipping.

For maximum safety, use four jack stands when you need to lift the entire car, with a stand at each corner. However, lifting all four wheels requires significant expertise and equipment. For most DIYers, working on one axle at a time with two high-quality, rated stands is the standard and safest practice.

What is the difference between a lift point and a jack point?

A jack point (or emergency jack point) is typically found along the side sill and is designed for the factory scissor jack during a tire change. A lift point is a more robust central area, like a front crossmember or rear differential, intended for a floor jack to raise the entire axle.

You use the side jack points with a scissor jack for wheels-off work. You use the central lift points with a floor jack to raise the vehicle high enough to place jack stands underneath. Knowing and using the correct point for your tool is fundamental to preventing underbody damage.

Why does my car creak when I jack it up?

A creaking or groaning sound is usually normal and comes from the suspension settling and the vehicle’s weight shifting onto the bushings and springs. As the frame lifts, tension changes in rubber bushings and sway bar links, which can produce audible noises. The sound of metal on metal from the jack saddle can also contribute.

However, a loud popping, cracking, or snapping sound is a serious warning. This could indicate a failing jack, a slipping stand, or a component breaking. If you hear sharp, alarming noises, stop lifting immediately, slowly lower the vehicle, and inspect everything thoroughly before proceeding.

Can I Use the Scissor Jack That Came With My Car?

Yes, but with major limitations. The factory scissor jack is designed for emergency roadside tire changes only. It is not stable or strong enough for repairs where you go under the vehicle.

• Purpose-Built: It’s lightweight and compact for storage, not for durability or prolonged support.
• Stability Risk: Its narrow base makes it prone to tipping on uneven surfaces. Never use it as a substitute for a proper floor jack and stands in your garage.
• Best Practice: Use it for its intended purpose: a quick tire swap in a pinch. For any planned maintenance, invest in proper hydraulic equipment.

How Do I Find the Exact Jack Points for My Specific Car Model?

The single most authoritative source is your vehicle’s owner’s manual. It contains diagrams showing the precise reinforced points. If the manual is lost, check these reliable alternatives.

1. Online Owner’s Manuals: Search for “[Your Car Year, Make, Model] owner’s manual PDF.” Most manufacturers provide free digital copies on their official websites.
2. Vehicle-Specific Forums: Enthusiast forums are goldmines of model-specific advice, often with photos and diagrams posted by experienced owners.
3. Visual Inspection: Look along the underside of the side rocker panels for notches, reinforced welds, or labels. Compare both sides to find the symmetrical points.

What is the Absolute Minimum Safety Gear I Need?

Beyond the jack itself, three items are non-negotiable for basic safety. Never attempt to lift a car without this core set of protective equipment.

Key Takeaway: The factory jack is for emergencies only. Always consult your manual for jack points. Your minimum safety kit must include jack stands, wheel chocks, and level, solid ground.

Essential Safety Gear:
1. Pair of Jack Stands: Rated for your vehicle’s weight.
2. Wheel Chocks: To prevent rolling (use two if possible).
3. Sturdy, Closed-Toe Shoes: To protect your feet from falling tools or the vehicle.